Duration: 10 nights | Route: Shropshire Union Canal to Llangollen Canal | Travel Style: Slow Travel on a Narrowboat | Origin & Destination: Nordbury Wharf to Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (& return)

When we were planning our time in the UK, we wanted to really try out a few different travel methods, and see the UK in a few different ways. Dan had seen Narrow-boating on YouTube and a few posts on social media about Narrow-boating before, and was really interested in trying out a really different and much slower method of travelling. It certainly did not disappoint!

Our journey along the Shropshire Union and Llangollen Canals was a unique blend of serene landscapes, historical sites, and charming canal-side villages. Exploring the UK’s extensive canal network on a narrowboat is the perfect way to immerse yourself in the beauty and history of the British countryside. If you’re considering a canal boat adventure, this guide will give you a taste of what to expect and why this experience is not to be missed.

Why Choose a Canal Boat Adventure?

Canal boating in the UK is like stepping back in time. The country boasts over 3,200 kilometers of navigable waterways, many of which date back to the late 18th century. These canals played a pivotal role in the Industrial Revolution, and today, they offer a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life.

We decided to embark on this adventure to experience the slower pace of travel, reconnect with nature, and explore parts of the UK that are often overlooked. Our narrowboat, with a top speed of ‘walking pace,’ allowed us to truly unwind and appreciate the journey, not just the destination.

The Plan: Shropshire Union and Llangollen Canals

Our 10-night journey began in Norbury Wharf on the Shropshire Union Canal, often affectionately called the “Shroppie” by boaters. This route winds through stunning countryside, historic market towns, and charming villages. We then transitioned onto the Llangollen Canal, famous for its picturesque scenery and engineering marvels – the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.

Hire Details:

We hired our canal boat through Norbury Wharf. We purely chose this one due to price, availability and a decent cruising route from this starting location. The inclusions on the boat and the layout to suit our family was consistent across most hire companies. We found them to be acceptable, the boat condition was suitable, the booking process easy and the hand-over and return process straight forward.

Our only down point was the communication for the collection day / first night. Upon booking, we were told we had until 4pm for collection, however when we arrived at 3:40pm we were told it was too late in the day for them to do the handover with us and we would have to do it the next morning. This meant we had to stay overnight on the boat in the mooring. Had we been told the handover time / collection time was 3:30pm or 3pm we would have ensured we were there on time. They were not willing to stay back even 5 minutes after 4pm to complete the hand over.

When to Travel

This is really personal preference as the canals are there all year round and most hire companies hire boats all year round too. However, there are positives and negatives to all seasons.

We did our hire in July, the middle of summer but we only had a hand full of warm times and no rain. Most days were cloudy or raining and it was rather miserable driving the boat in the rain. However, the weather is obviously not something you have any control over other than you have more chance of warmer and sunnier weather in Summer than in Winter but no guarantee. The facilities, services and boats are set-up for all year round as there are many people who live on Narrow Boats.

The positives of doing a Winter, Spring or Autumn hire would be they are most likely cheaper and there would be less boats on the canal network. The summers are very busy and sometimes there are lines of boats waiting for their turn at the locks. In saying that, locks may be more strenuous in the winter as the chance of them not being set in the right direction for you, making it more work.

Features and inclusions of a Narrow Boat

When looking at our hire we found most boats had very similar layouts and inclusions. They are set-up so you can live comfortably onboard for a week or so. I’ll give you some basic ideas of it here but the walkthrough video shows what you can expect much better.

Sleeping – there are numerous layouts and number of bed combinations, we had a 4 berth with 1 double and 2 single beds.

Bathroom – we had a full bathroom and a 2nd toilet with basin.

Kitchen – we had fridge, freezer, cooktop, oven and microwave. All pots, pans, cutlery and dinnerware is included. We didn’t have any basic things like dishwashing liquid or toilet paper included, so remember to bring that just to be safe.

All linen, towels (including teatowel) was included.

There is a lounge area with heating throughout and in ours, there was a wood fire heater too.

There is a basic power set-up and water tanks on board, but again more details are in the video and these are things that are variable between boats.

Watch our Walkthrough and Hints and Tips here:

Canal Boat Life: Learning the Ropes

Steering a narrowboat might sound daunting, but we quickly got the hang of it. The basics include managing the tiller and throttle, understanding the boat’s width for navigating through narrow bridges and tunnels, and mastering the locks. Before we set off we were giving a full run-down of how the boat works, living on the boat and driving. We were guided out of the mooring and shown the ropes, before Dan took over and demonstrated confidence and control. Later that day, we faced our first locks. After a few observations and some help from friendly locals, we were confidently navigating the locks of the waterways.

A typical day involved sitting at the back of the boat, steering through the lush, green scenery, and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. Despite the rain, we found moments to capture the stunning landscape, especially when the weather cleared just as we were docking for the day.

Watch our first 4 days on our Hire Boat here:

The UK’s Water Version of Free Camping

One of the unique aspects of canal boating is its similarity to free camping, but on water. We had the freedom to moor our boat almost anywhere along the canal for the night. There are free water fill-up points, and “Canal Boaters Services” offer free showers, toilets, and rubbish bins. However, there is a small fee for emptying your toilet and doing laundry. The boating community is generally welcoming, although we did encounter a few grumpy souls along the way.

When we parked up each night our views were different. Sometimes we were in the forest, other times overlooking farm pastures and others lakes. Some nights we were completely on our own, others we had neighbours. The benefit of canal boating is that you can pick your spot, unless it has a no-mooring sign/private property sign, and some moorings are day-use only or time limited, so keep an eye out for these. There are also designated paid moorings with power hook-ups and services if you prefer.

The UK’s Canal Network: A Marvel of Engineering

The UK’s canal network is a testament to engineering ingenuity, with each canal telling its own story. Here are some fascinating facts about the UK’s canals:

1. Ancient History: The oldest working canal in the UK is nearly 1,900 years old.
2. Impressive Tunnels: The longest canal tunnel in the UK stretches over 5,000 meters.
3. Awe-Inspiring Aqueducts: Britain’s longest aqueduct spans more than 300 meters.
4. Massive Lock Flights: The longest lock flight in the UK consists of 30 locks.
5. Vast Waterways: The UK boasts over 3200 kilometres of navigable canals and rivers, with the Grand Union Canal being the longest at 220metres from London to Birmingham.
6. Modern Developments: The newest canal in the UK was completed in 2002.
7. Tiny Canals: Britain’s shortest canal is just 22 meters long.
8. Quirky Tales: A cow once swam the entire length of the Foulridge Tunnel.
9. Hidden Plugs: Canals have literal plugs, one of which was discovered by accident in 1978 when a chain with a heavy piece of wood was pulled up, causing a canal to run dry.
10. Boating Renaissance: There are more boats on the UK canals today than at any other time in history.

Highlights of the Journey

The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct: The Stream in the Sky

Our journey’s crown jewel was the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, a UNESCO World Heritage site that spans the Dee Valley at an astonishing height of 38 meters. Designed by Thomas Telford and William Jessop, this 18th-century aqueduct is a masterpiece of engineering. As we crossed it, the breathtaking views of the valley below were both exhilarating and nerve-wracking.

Canal-Side Pubs and Local Delights

One of the joys of canal boating is the chance to stop at cozy canal-side pubs. We made sure to visit The Shroppie Fly, where we enjoyed traditional British fare and a refreshing pint. These pubs are often located in picturesque settings, offering a perfect spot to relax and mingle with fellow boaters. For those carrying cash, there are also opportunities to buy local treats like ice cream and cakes from vendors along the canal.

Exploring Historic Market Towns

Our route took us through several historic market towns, including Market Drayton, Ellesmere and Nantwich. Each town offered a glimpse into the region’s rich history, with charming architecture, local markets, and friendly locals. These stops were perfect for stretching our legs and exploring the local culture.

Weather and Wildlife

We embarked on our journey with a weather forecast that promised 80% rain and clouds each day. Despite the wet conditions, the beauty of the landscape was undeniable. The canal paths were lined with ducks, swans, cows, sheep, and even a few rabbits. The persistent rain added a certain charm to the journey, creating misty, atmospheric scenes that were perfect for photography—whenever it wasn’t raining, of course! However this also made it more challenging to continue to journey as driving and doing locks and bridges in the heavy rain wasn’t too much fun.

Watch our us cross the Stream in the Sky here:

Tips for a Successful Canal Boat Adventure

• Prepare for the Weather: Pack waterproof gear and be ready for rain, especially if you’re traveling in the UK. The weather can be unpredictable, but it’s all part of the experience. Also, be flexible with your travel times and distances to be able to go with the weather the best you can.
• Learn the Basics: Before setting off, take the time to learn how to steer the boat and navigate the locks. Most hire companies will provide a brief tutorial before you leave, they want to make sure you’re comfortable too.
• Embrace the Slow Pace: Canal boating is all about slowing down and enjoying the journey. Take your time, soak in the scenery, and don’t rush from one destination to the next. Take time to moor up and walk into the towns and attractions along the way. If we could have had bikes and better weather, we would have done more of this for sure.
• Cash is King: While many places accept cards, it’s always a good idea to carry cash, especially for small purchases at local vendors or canal-side stops like ice-cream and cakes.
• Shops for groceries – but easier to take all on board at the beginning

Our Trip Details and Statistics:

• Route: Nordbury Wharf, Shropshire Union Canal to Llangollen Canal to Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
• Distance: 231 kilometers approx.
• Locks: 102
• Bridges: 266
• Lift Bridges: 18
• Tunnels: 6
• Aqueducts: 8
• Pubs Stops: 2
• Fuel Used: 100 liters
• Travel Time: 70 hours approx.
• Rainy Hours: 40 hours
• Hire Cost: $3,740
• Fuel Cost: $220
• Total Cost: $4,980 (including hire, fuel, food, eating out, internet, etc)

Conclusion: An Unforgettable Adventure

Our canal boat adventure through the Shropshire Union and Llangollen Canals was an unforgettable journey that combined the beauty of the British countryside with the charm of slow travel. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a family looking for a unique holiday, this experience offers a chance to connect with nature, explore historic sites, and unwind in a way that few other forms of travel can match.

If you’re looking for a truly unique and immersive travel experience, we highly recommend setting sail on the UK’s canals. The memories you create will last a lifetime.

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